High Density Expanding Foam|Pole Setting|OK|USA — Secure Set (2023)

FAQs

How much does Secure Set expand? ›

Secure Set will expand rapidly to 18 times its original size. Support structures can be removed in 15 minutes and the pole will be fully set in 60 minutes.

(16-32°c/60°-90°F) (16°-32°c/60°-90°F) During colder months, it is extremely important to remember the temperature sensitivity of 2-component spray foam.

We have had great success in using Secure Set Spray Foam to fill hard to reach voids simply by drilling one or more 3/8″ holes in the concrete or by laterally inserting an extension tube to apply the spray foam. No excavating or concrete work.

WHAT IS SECURE SET. Secure Set is an inert plastic, high-density, closed cell, polyurethane water blown foam. Secure Set contains no CFC's or HFC's to create it's cellular structure. It's original use is to set power poles for utility companies and fence posts for residential and commercial projects.

6. HOW LONG WILL SECURE SET LAST IN THE GROUND? Secure Set is a green product and environmentally safe. As an inert plastic foam, Secure Set has an expected life of more than 40 years.

Q: How much weight can EPS Carry? ASTM C578 standard for EPS type I is 10psi or 1,440 pounds per square ft (1 square foot is equal to 144 square inches). One square inch of Type I EPS can support 10 pounds; however, set a one square foot board on the foam and it can support 1,440 pounds.

Foam will be tack free in about 20 minutes. It can be cut, sanded, plastered, or painted after twelve hours and will be fully cured in 12 -24 hours. If exposed to sunlight, the foam should be painted or coated.

Spraying a mist of water on the substrate or/and between layers of foam can speed up the curing process. Typically, it can take between 5 and 60 minutes for the foam to become tack-free. Full cure may be reached in a time range of about 8 to 24 hours, depending on the product and site conditions.

For a successful spray foam insulation installation, application side surface typically needs to fall between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If temperatures are below this range, there's a greater potential for equipment breakdowns and a larger chance foam will pop, shrink, and fail to adhere properly to substrates.

Avoid using the foam near any ceiling lights or heating appliances. If you spray the foam near a ceiling light, for example, there is a chance that it could catch fire due to the flammable nature of the spray. Additionally, it could also cause damage to the light itself if it cures around any wiring.

Will expanding foam lift concrete? ›

Polyurethane foam is great for leveling concrete. As the foam is injected under the concrete, it moves and expands. As the foam expands it fills any holes, cracks, and crevices beneath the concrete slab. Once voids are filled, the foam begins to lift the sunken concrete.

High-density spray foam insulation has the densest structure of all spray foam insulation types. Due to its high density, more material is needed to cover and insulate an area. For each cubic foot of high-density spray foam insulation, roughly 3 lbs. of closed-cell foam is used.

Spray foam isn't your average foam. It's extremely hard, durable, and can withstand substantial weights. In most cases, the weight limit of spray foam roofing is around 50 pounds per square inch.

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Once spray foam is installed into an area, the material expands and hardens. The expansion creates many little air bubbles within the material and fills all corners and gaps, ensuring that there is an airtight seal.

Concrete is stronger

Capozzolo and McCall agree foam isn't as strong as concrete. “For lightweight fences or locations that aren't subject to high winds, the expanded foam would be the ideal choice,” Capozzolo says. “But if structural strength is a concern, then I'd recommend concrete.”

The foam expands to several times its initial volume in just a few seconds, and permanently attaches to the surfaces of the surrounding building materials. It seals all gaps for maximum effectiveness. Spray foam insulation will last indefinitely.

ABOUT HIGH DENSITY SPRAY FOAM

Versi-Foam^® is available in a higher density system, with a free rise density of 2.8 pounds per cubic foot, 3 pounds per cubic foot in place. It is 98% closed cell resulting in an R-factor of 7.7, a low moisture absorption rate and excellent compressive strength.

Does expanding foam stick to everything? ›

It does stick very well but fire foam for example (expanding foam variant) is used around fire door frames, expanding foam can be used to fill the gap between a UPVC window and brickwork but proper fixings can never be replaced by foam...

Homes with open cell spray foam don't have to replace the foam when it gets wet, or even after it has been submerged. This might come as a surprise because there is a common misconception that all open cell spray foams absorb water like a sponge and retain it, but that's not the case.

Be careful, though; you want to dampen the area, not wet it. Foam sealant won't stick well to a wet surface. You can also mist the foam after it's applied to maximize expansion and speed up the curing process.

2 inches of spray foam is enough in particular situations while using a particular type of foam, but it is not a universally accepted standard for sufficiency. When using closed-cell foam in walls, it is generally considered sufficient when 2 to 3 inches are sprayed.

Of course, spray foam can be unsafe for occupants too. According to the EPA, occupants must stay away from the building while it cures (and as long as the dust remains) for at least 24 to 72 hours, something they, devastatingly, are not always told.

TOO COLD. If your foam is expanding too slowly or not enough, and the foam seems otherwise well-balanced, the substrate or foam is probably too cold.

If the foam is sprayed thicker than recommended for its type, excessive heat can result causing odors, cracks, shrinkage, or charring.

Heat should be maintained in the building for at least 24 hours after spraying to allow the foam to complete the curing process.

“Polyurethane cures by reacting with the moisture in the air. If very little or no moisture is available, the light and fluffy foam will collapse into itself as it cures. A light spray of water applied to surfaces before filling voids with foam will go a long way toward getting foam to cure properly.

After you're finished using your can of expanding foam, simply use another one of our favorite products mentioned above: WD-40. Just pull out the straw from the foam can and spray in a little WD-40. It will breakdown the residual foam inside the straw.

What eats cured spray foam? ›

Again, acetone is the best option here. Apply some to a clean cloth and wipe the spray foam off your skin.

Both types of spray foam insulation can last anywhere from 80 years to 100 years, with closed cell spray foam having a slight edge in terms of durability. For most families, this represents the lifetime of the house and then some!

Here's the good news! Unlike short term options like mudjacking, PolyLevel is a solution that will last. A study done in 2006 by Argonne National Laboratory found that the longevity of rigid PolyLevel foam is more than 1000 years.

25 PSI High Density Expanded Foam is rated for under concrete and foundation insulation use. It will not degrade or lose R Value when subjected to moisture.

Foams with a high density will generally feel more firm, and can withstand more pressure. Conversely, low-density foams will feel softer, but cannot withstand excessive pressure or weight.

Many people think that a higher foam density means a firmer foam. This is not the case. A low-density foam can be firm and a foam that is high in density foam can be soft.

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A typical set of open cell spray foam yields approximately 16,000 bf (board feet) which is equal to spraying 1,600 square feet of area at a thickness of 10" inches.

Does spray foam set hard? ›

Spray foam insulation expands as it comes into contact with the air and hardens as it dries, resulting in a transformation from liquid to a rigid state.

1/2-lb SPF has a high open-cell content (greater than 50 percent) and liquid water can enter the foam. Conversely, 2-lb SPF has a high closed-cell content (greater than 90 percent) and resists water absorption. In a building assembly, the latter SPF offers added weather or rain barrier protection.

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Mudjacking a concrete slab can be a fulfilling DIY project that will ultimately cost between $1 and $5 per square foot. You will likely need to rent all of the equipment for the job, however, which includes a concrete circular saw, hammer drill, and a hydraulic slurry pump.

Mud jacking can lift a settled concrete slab by pumping a grout through the concrete and pushing it up from below. The process is sometimes called “slab jacking” or “pressure grouting”. 1 to 1 5/8th inch diameter holes are drilled through the sunken concrete block/slab at strategic locations to maximize lift.

Polyurethane foam is great for leveling concrete. As the foam is injected under the concrete, it moves and expands. As the foam expands it fills any holes, cracks, and crevices beneath the concrete slab. Once voids are filled, the foam begins to lift the sunken concrete.

Concrete provides a strong support for these products. Expanded foam has nowhere near the density or rigidity. It is plenty strong enough to hold the post up under normal circumstances, but has little structural strength.

Because of the properties of SPF (sprayed polyurethane foam) it chemically bonds with most substrates; cement, wood, stone, gravel, and brick. However, spray foam will not properly stick to a surface if the construction surface is wet or is retaining moisture.

What is slabjack? ›

Slabjacking is the process of lifting a building, driveway, or any object by pumping a concrete mixture beneath the item to be lifted.

Polyurethane concrete raising leads to a longer-lasting and quicker repair, and it can reach more areas than mudjacking. It's a better value for your money and the best choice for almost all projects.

Polyurethane Foam Leveling

The pressure from the expansion causes the concrete to lift, then the foam hardens, creating a new solid base for the concrete to rest on. Polyurethane foam concrete leveling uses smaller drill holes and can be less messy than both mudjacking and stone slurry grout leveling.

Concrete is by design a porous material and water can pass through it by hydrostatic pressure, water vapor gradient or capillary action. Water can also enter at cracks, structural defects or at improperly designed or installed joints.

The easiest way is to use a self-leveling compound, also called liquid floor underlayment or floor resurfacer, within sections of level-cut rails. The material flows out like thick syrup, then hardens into a smooth, perfectly level surface, sometimes in less than an hour.

Most of the time, the culprit is the soil underneath the concrete slab. Concrete is heavy, and when the soil underneath the concrete slab can't support its weight, the slab will sink. Concrete that is cracking or sinking will get worse over time.